“The traveler sees what he sees, the tourist sees what he has come to see.” ~G. K. Chesterton

Saturday, August 7, 2010

If You Don't Like Airports You May Not Like Israel.

If anyone was worried about my safety you can rest assured I'm safe, very safe!!! I had prepared myself for the multitude of Israeli solders and their intimidating guns (since enlistment is compulsory.) However, I was not ready for all the other security procedures. Before you can enter any public space (shopping malls, grocery stores, etc) you must undergo a mandatory security search. Sometimes these can involve interrogations, walking through a metal detector, and X-Ray machines. But normally they just entail a big man with an Uzi looking through your bag... In this respect Israel feels very much like an airport

My first encounter with this was naturally unexpected and awkward… It was at a shady bus station. I started by wandering around the structure to avoid the scary man with a gun guarding the only perceivable entrance. Once I was confident that there was no way of evading the guard I waited to see if anyone else would enter; this of course did not happen. I cautiously approached the entrance pretending to be occupied with my cell phone. This is unimaginably difficult to do when your phone is turned off… My plan was to continue with my intriguing imaginary text message until I had somehow managed to slip past him… This was a horrible idea! One of my worst! If wandering around the building hadn't made me look shady, trying to sneak past security certainly did! …I walked to his left, he moved to meet me, I slid to the right, and boom! He was there!

In his deep dry voice he rambled something, doubtlessly very unpleasant, in Hebrew. "Slikha" (excuse me,) said I, in a meek voice. He repeated his barbarous utterance… After a long strand of "ummm, ahhhh, ahhh..." I told him I didn't speak Hebrew well. He grasped his Uzi with one hand and made a slight nod of his head in the direction of my backpack. I took off the pack. He motioned for me to open it… The next few moments which seemed an eternity were spent with him quarrying through my bags. By the end of his exploration a long line had formed. Humbled and dejected I meandered into the station. My only consolation was that my deep blush from embarrassment was masked by hot and sun-kissed cheeks. It was a sad day!

Here's the security to get into the University:

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

A Few of My Favorite Things...

After two and a half weeks in Be'er Sheva I feel accustomed to life here. Well, as accustomed as a foreigner can be! I have busied myself exploring the city and discovering its charm. Be'er Sheva is an easily traversed town. The Old City a mere 30 minute jaunt from the dorms and the Shouk (a very magical place) only 25 minutes! The allure to uncover more of the city's mysteries has often (typically) surpassed my studious inclinations…
Here are a few of my favorite things in Be'er Shava...
The Shouk!!! …Excuse the poor quality/random angles of the photographs! I sneakily snapped these pictures! ...Even though the traders are exceptionally pleasant I still feel awkward cavalierly taking photos…

On the far left is one of my travel buddies!


The Shouk is one of my favorite parts of the city for numerous reasons… mostly the cheap delicious food! This amazing spread cost the equivalent of $12!
However, the general ambiance mixed with the delightful vendors who are rarely able to speak English have also been an attractive feature!


Here's a pic of the Old City (a "favorite thing.") A wonderful place to wander. Again, my apologies about the angle and quality!

Another of my "favorite things” about the city is the neighborhood in which I live. The university was built in the poorest part of Be'er Sheva as a way of raising the standard of living and local economy. I feel as a result of the University's surroundings a minimalistic life style has been adopted by most of the students. In my dorm we have only what we need. Each of my roommates has a plate, bowl, and cutlery; perhaps there is an extra set for a guest, but nothing in excess.


A typical yard close to my dorm:This is me trying to embrace a more frugal life style… laundry day in my dorm room.



Of course Ulpan (the language program) makes the favorite list. My teacher, Hannah, and I had a rocky start. However, I feel time and my stubborn persistence to win her affections have paid off!

One of our first conversations in front of the class... Imagine this (and the other) discussion(s) in Hebrew, well mostly Hebrew! I speak a broken form of the language filled with “ahhhs,” “ummms,” and random mumblings which change inflection based upon my teachers facial expression.



Hannah: SaRah! Do you have a roommate living with you in your dorm?


Me: Yes I live with my girlfriend!

Hannah: oh! Are you in love with her?


Me: Yes, I love my girlfriend very much!


Hannah then made some comment to the class which they all laughed to and proceeded to asked a few of the girls if they thought I was sexy.


Another conversation:


Hannah: Are you friends with him? (pointing to a German I had never really talked to.)


Me: Excuse me, could you say again?


Hannah: ARE YOU FRIENDS WITH HIM?


Me: ah, maybe I'm friends with him...


Hannah: NO!!! Yes or No! Don't be politically correct be hebrewally correct.


Me: ahhh... yes.


Hannah: Say the whole sentence!


Me: Yes, I am friends with him.


Hannah: Are you friends with me?


Me: mayb... ahhh... Yes, I am friends with you!


Hannah: You're not my friend...


Me: :'(


After days of drawing her pictures on my homework she began to soften towards me... a little. About 2 weeks into the program we finally bonded over our shared love of coffee. I was called on to use the verbs "want" and "need."


Hannah: y'all (come on!) SaRah!


Me: I want sleep, I want food, but I need coffee. Coffee is life!


Hannah: no, you need water to live!


Me: I like water, I need coffee!


Hannah: hmmm... okay.


Since then she has been using me and coffee for examples of new vocab and/or verbs... Even though it's technically mocking me I sense that deep down she really likes me!


Hannah: Coffee is important to SaRah; coffee makes SaRah's life worthwhile.


Here is the class:My artwork:


On the top of my “favorite things in Be'er Sheva list,” followed closely by ice cream and hummus, are the friendships! I have really enjoyed getting to know the people from my program, and a few have become close friends and adventure buddies!

Here is a group picnic:
During the first full week a friend and I were invited to go to a street festival with some Israelis we met during that first Shabbat dinner. It was great fun! Our Israeli friends were performing a type of marital arts mixed with dance for the festival. It's called Capoeira. Hopefully the video of their demonstration will play!






At the festival there was also an amazing guitarist. She had a nice voice but what imprested me most was her versatility and command over the guitar. I really hope this next video plays!




At the end of our first full week the group went on another excursion… I believe it was suppose to be some kind of team building exercise, or perhaps just to ensure the unity of the group… We were all led out into the desert (on the hottest day of the summer) presumably to die!

Hannah told the class we probably wouldn't make it out alive and tried to talk the group leader out of it. But alas! She did not prevail! …Just as well! Besides the stifling heat, the glaring sun, and the tour guide who was on the obnoxious side of conceited, it was a good trip! The near death simulation wasn't as daunting as Hannah led me to believe and it did indeed strengthen group accord! Plus I found some neat pieces of pottery from long long ago…

A friend and I trying to find some shade... Didn't really work out...
another rest...

Blue steel! Israeli style!… This is my roommie!
Here is our persnickety tour guide… His pretty much a big deal!
The Endish...

Monday, August 2, 2010

Shabbat Shalom!

After we returned from the Dead Sea the group was given a few hours to freshen up, (and recover some pride, in my case,) before Shabbat. For those unfamiliar with Judaism, the Shabbat is a day of rest observed from sunset Friday to sunset Saturday.

The group was divided into 2s and 3s and sent to nearby houses to enjoy Shabbat dinner with some of the locals. I was a little nerves, this being my first Shabbat. I had no idea how conservatively to dress or what I would be expected to do. Unfortunately my partner was not able to offer me much council besides telling me "I'd be fine."

My mind was almost instantaneously put to ease upon arrival. My hosts, two men and three girls, all in their mid twenties, were delightful! The meal was very laid back and the conversation lively. Though the Shabbat dinner may have been far from "orthodox," it provided much insight into Israeli culture and politics; as well as introduced me to my first Israeli friends!

One of our hosts and a glimpse of the wonderful meal!


Saturday was mostly spent familiarizing myself to the dorms and university. In the evening I joined my group on a short hike to the monument for the Negev Brigade.

The structure itself is fascinating! An interactive and abstract interpretation of the conflict that pays tribute to the many "Israelis" (not Israelis at the time of the war) that lost their lives. My photographs do not do it justice; if you are interested you should follow the link or google it.

http://www.war-memorial.net/Monument-to-the-Negev-Brigade-1.241




A friend from the group, and I, atop part of the monument:

After the hike down, we concluded the Shabbat with Havdalah, a ceremony that announces the end to the holy day of rest.