“If you don’t know where you are going, any road will get you there.” This quote by Lewis Carroll, is to me, both hopeful and bleak... It opens wide the door of opportunity, although, it can simultaneously open the lid to Pandora’s Box!
The hopeful facet of this axiom proved an excellent companion during the 5 day absence of my friend, translator, guide and roommate, Kayla. The day after I returned from Mongolia Kayla had to leave for a business trip... With no plans, no guide and no expectations I setout to explore Beijing! Every metro station was a thrilling portal to another world; every side street the threshold to a labyrinth of Hutongs!!!
I spent the days overwhelmed with joy and hopelessly lost! Every turn brought me to exactly where I didn’t know I wanted to be! It was lovely!
This is a man swimming in Hou Hai! Not advisable:
However, much to my chagrin, I soon became acquainted with the bleak side of this truism! Human history and personal experience both exemplify the danger of making any decision out of fear, uncertainty, anxiety or ignorance. Although, both history and I incessantly make this mistake! ...If you don’t know where you are going any road seems adequate...
Though, I had only been in China for less than one week I suddenly felt panicky. My present state of ambiguity seemed to magnify the petty practicalities of life like finances, job, and purpose. Taking a decided step in any direction seemed prudent. Act now, consider the consequences later... Fortunately this feeling was fleeting; unfortunately it wasn’t fleeting fast enough. Opportunity struck on inopportunity! I received a phone call from an unassuming Chinese woman named Maria, a recruiter of English teachers... That same day I found myself in her office, being informed of “jobs too good to refuse!”
The prospect of a salary was appealing and “helping the children” was almost impossible to decline.... Though, miraculously I escaped the stockades of manipulation and flatteries (her office) without signing a contracted! Safe in the subway car back to my apartment I reflected on my narrow escape!
I decided to push aside the fear and anxiety, which are not necessarily companions of ambiguity; I resolved to decline the job offers! I didn’t want to opt for any teaching job without first pursuing work with NGOs, my true passion! ...I remained thus, firmly resolved, until I received another call from her a few days later. It went something like this:
Maria: Hello, ya, Sarah!
Me: Hello!
Maria: “Good news! I have excellent opportunity for you! Children need you! It is nice pay! It is good for you!!! Yes?”
Me: “No! Remember? I don’t want to take any job for a few weeks! I’ve only been in China for 7 days, and 2 of those were actually in Mongolia!”
Maria: “hmmm, yes, but this is temporary job, only 3 days! It is very good for you! You gain experience! Help little children! And get pocket money! Yes?”
Me: “Maybe. Where is the job? I live off of the Batong line, very far East.”
Maria: “Yes, it is not far, very convenient for you! Near Beijing! Yes!?”
Me: “Wait! Is the school not in Beijing?!?”
Maria: “It is near Beijing, yes, very close, and the children will love you! You can stay there for 3 days or maybe longer! It’s ok! Yes!?”
Me: “Where will I stay?”
Maria: “There! An apartment! ....uhhh, I forget the words in English, but, hmm, there is, how you say, bed, or maybe no, hmmmm... I forget how to say! Blanket maybe! Yes! Blanket! You need! ...But pocket money! And the Children! Think of the children Sarah!!! Yes!?!”
The conversation grew exponentially in manipulation and “forgotten” English words... Early the next morning I found myself crammed into a metro car with more people than reside in my home town contemplating the importance of the forgotten words... After 3 hours of metros, walks, and taxis, I arrived in the middle of nowhere; a place where the subways don’t run!
First I went to the kindergarten where I awkwardly sat in the middle of the headmaster’s office as he expressed (in a very unfriendly and loud voice) his immense dissatisfaction with me! He wanted someone with more experience and for long term. Apparently Maria has a bad habit of forgetting words! Nonetheless, within a half hour I found myself thrust into a band of two year olds where I was expected to teach English. I had no curriculum, no direction, and no one who knew enough English to explain how I was to accomplish this feat! The time allotted for the “lesson” was also undisclosed!
Outfitted with a smile and a Chinese phrase book Brandon lent me, I approached one of the teachers. In vain I sought to knit together a tangle of phrases such as: “The train leaves in 10 minutes,” “I speak English,” “How long until the next bus leaves,” “What are you studying at the Beijing University,” “Are there any available tables,” “I love reading books,” and “I need directions to there.” My hope was to string together a few semi-intelligible sentences, something like: “How long do I speak English? 10 minutes? Are there any available English books? I need directions!”
This taxing endeavor only produced a bright smile and blank stare which were of little use... Turning back to the children, I greeted them with excessive smiles and introduced myself. After a time of singing “Head, shoulders, knees and toes,” I was signaled to leave. Following a procession of hugs and “bye-bye teachas” I found myself in another class of slightly older children. Mimicking the opening of a book with my hands and then pointing to the British flag on my shoulder bag, the teacher ascertained my meaning and pointed to a corner of the classroom. There I was able to find a pile of English songbooks and some flashcards! Grateful for tools I proceeded to teach the kiddos “I’m a Little Teapot” and “The Wheels on the Bus Go Round.” Their inquisitive minds devoured the information! Quickly learning the motions that accompanied the songs, I proudly surveyed my class of little teapots, short and stout, boasting both handles and spouts!
The rest of my morning was spent singing and shuffling between classes. After lunch I was instructed to go to another kindergarten where I would spend the afternoon. I waited for the appearance of my ride. What pulled up was a worn down vehicle driven by a middle-aged Chinese man who sported a wife-beater and a thick gold chain around his neck.
Hesitantly I entered the vehicle.
After “Ni haos” were exchanged the driver handed me a piece of paper and started yelling at me! Furiously digging through my bag I managed to uncover my phrase book....
Me, spoken with no tones, the wrong emphases and a thick American accent: “wo bu miiiing’bai! (I don’t understand!) and the yelling is making me uncomfortable!”
Driver: “ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, grrrr! arrrrrr! ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.”
Me: “ok, super sorry... lets see here, this paper, hmmm, do you need me to sign it?” As I made the international signature signal over the piece of paper.
Driver: “AHHHHH!!!! AH AH AH! ARRRRR....”
Me: “Dude! ok, uhh, wo mei-guuoren. wo bu’shuo han yu! (I American. I no speak Korean! (Korean sounds a lot like Chinese, which is what I was actually going for))
Driver: “AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.....”
Me: “hmmm, this is not ideal!” –Digging through my bag again I found my phone and called Kayla.
Me: “Hey, Kayla, how are you? I’m in a strange car with a man who won’t stop yelling at me in Chinese and I’m not sure where he is taking me! Could you be a dear and try and figure out what he wants? I think it may pertain to a piece of paper he handed me.”
Kayla: “Sure! I can try!”
I handed off the phone. After the driver yelled into the receiver for a few minutes I was handed back the phone.
Me: “Well?”
Kayla: “Ok, he has a very strong accent, but I don’t think he’s mad. I think he was just talking. He said you were new and he’s driving you to another kindergarten owned by the same people... He then went on about his day... Oh and he says to need to sign the paper. But, yeah, that’s it!”
Me: “Really! Whoa! Kinda melodramatic! Ok, bye!”
At the new kindergarten I continued the same regiment of singing and shuffling between classes. A few hours later, after another melodramatic ride with an attention starved driver, I was dropped off near the first school. I then started the search for my apartment. I found it about 5 kilometers northwest of the school.
Some pictures of the schools:
Entering the apartment I discovered a few of the words Maria had forgotten. Such as: “no hot water,” “no blankets,” “no working appliances,” “no internet,” “some windows permanently fixed open creating an arctic wind tunnel through the living room,” etc...
Me: “Bummers!”
To me, the greatest source of sadness, eclipsing complete isolation, being the only English speaker within 50 kilometers, and no guidance in how to perform my job, was the prospects of being cold! I hate being cold! I hate everything about cold! I hate even the idea of cold! And there I was, in a drafty apartment in March, it might was well have been a cryosphere!
Surveying my bedroom I spotted a space heater attached to the wall!!! Joy! I rushed to the instrument and plugged it in with a prayer! Nothing! ...After flipping on and off every switch in the room I came across a remote! Examining the device covered with interesting scribbles known as “Characters” in the Chinese language, I discovered it had no batteries! Heartbreak! But wait!!! Rushing to my bag I pulled out my MP3 player, previously a source of shame, at present, perhaps my salvation!
It is over 5 years old, runs on AAA batteries, is maybe 1 gigabyte and, after losing its computer cable during my first semester at the University I have been unable to replace or remove the 2 hours of Arabic recordings and maybe 50 songs on it... I have no idea why I brought it to China, and I’m even less certain of why I brought it to the middle of no where! I long ago grew tired of its melodies and friends have perpetually teased me for its bulk and worthlessness! Nonetheless, there it was, at the bottom of my bag, after its long and ostensibly pointless journey overseas.
Opening its back I pulled out the batteries and placed them in the remote control... 30 minutes of fidgeting ensued! Then, at long last, warmth!!! Glory Be! I positioned the mattress from my bed directly under the heater, and pulled a desk and any other seemingly useful furnishing into the room! Whenever I wasn’t at work I retreated to this warm haven!
My room:
After 3 days in the wilderness I was allowed to make my way back to Beijing and civilization! Although the circumstance of those 3 days should have proven overwhelming, they strangely did not! Nothing about the experience really upset me! ...Although, I was given no instruction, I was also given no correction! Yes, I technically was unable to receive either because no one spoke English! Though, I chose to believe I was just an exceptional teacher! In addition to this, I also had a warm place to sleep! What more could I hope for!
A picture of the town:
Happily I returned to Beijing, though I felt my experience had been worthwhile and character building!
The rhythmic sounds of the oars cutting through the water drown out even the remembrance of traffic murmurs. The water was clear (relatively speaking.) The sky took on a truly blue hue. The mild breeze brought us the nearly forgotten scents of trees, flowers, fish, earth and algae... Beijing was worlds away from the lake and mountains that surrounded us. And if there had been any doubt regarding the expanse that lay between us and our urban haunt, they were dashed once we rounded the next cove. There I was awakened from my trance by the laughs and splashes of skinny dippers jumping off outcroppings. Though both parties involved seem surprised to discover the existence of the other, they seemed undaunted, and continued their sport was we floated by...
The island:
Coming ashore:
Exploring the island:
A lookout tower on the island:
Views from the tower:
The top of the mountain... More or less....
Glory wounds:
A little hut and its keeper we came across:
The rhythmic sounds of the oars cutting through the water drown out even the remembrance of traffic murmurs. The water was clear (relatively speaking.) The sky took on a truly blue hue. The mild breeze brought us the nearly forgotten scents of trees, flowers, fish, earth and algae... Beijing was worlds away from the lake and mountains that surrounded us. And if there had been any doubt regarding the expanse that lay between us and our urban haunt, they were dashed once we rounded the next cove. There I was awakened from my trance by the laughs and splashes of skinny dippers jumping off outcroppings. Though both parties involved seem surprised to discover the existence of the other, they seemed undaunted, and continued their sport was we floated by...
The island:
Coming ashore:
Exploring the island:
A lookout tower on the island:
Views from the tower:
The top of the mountain... More or less....
Glory wounds:
A little hut and its keeper we came across:
