“The traveler sees what he sees, the tourist sees what he has come to see.” ~G. K. Chesterton

Friday, July 30, 2010

The Dead Sea is Dead to Me!!!

I have migrated from Tel Aviv along the Mediterranean coast to Be'er Sheva in the Negev, the desert in southern Israel… I miss the sea! The desert has beauty; however, the glaring sun and high temperatures allows one to only enjoy it in moderation.


This is a view of Be'er Sheva

I arrived at Ben-Grunion University Thursday, meeting up with other students for the Hebrew summer program. The group is quite dynamic, comprised of people from across the globe: South Africa, France, Germany, Bulgaria, Sweden, Argentina, our neighbors to the north, and the States. Thus far everyone is friendly and excepting.


The Univerisity:
My dorm building:

My dorm room:

On Friday the group went on its first expedition, a trip to the Dead Sea. We started with a hike through a canyon just west of the Sea. It was here that my Chacos proved themselves worthy to be called adventure shoes… I must admit to having some insecurity regarding my Chacos... To the untrained eye they appear merely a glorified sandal; one that has sparked a sort of hippy religious following. Yet, regardless of their trendy/spiritual characterization the Chacos' versatility and durability have won my heart.

In an effort to avoid the draining sun the group utilized the canyon's stream as its trail. The steam gives life to small trees and other vegetation along its banks, which in turn shades its course. Many in the group were confronted with a dilemma; evade the sun and contend with wet socks and heavy boots, or protect their footwear and take on the sun. But not I!


My Chacos took on the rocky, wet, slick terrain with ease; in fact they have yet to face a landscape they cannot traverse.
The trail:

Most of the group:

Another view of the canyon:

After the hike we went for a dip in the Dead Sea to cool off. The whole hike I looked forward to this experience, not just because it was unimaginably hot, but I was also eager to float with zero physical exertion. I have never been a good swimmer… well, I've actually never really learned how to swim. My goal has always been to not die which requires a fair amount of thrashing and flailing. This method, though not efficient, has obviously been effective regardless of the little bit of pride I lose each time I attempt this endeavor.

Try and picture my euphoria as I come out of the canyon and behold the Dead Sea! Soon I will be, for the first time, in water on equal standing with my peers in buoyancy and ability! Yet, in spite of my romanticized notions and high hopes, all my dreams and anticipations came crashing down around me…
Everything about the experience was unpleasant except for the aesthetics… I dashed out into the water trying to disregard the burning sensation which engulfed my entire body (it doesn't matter if you have cuts or if you have shaved recently, you will experience pain!) The blindingly bright sun also seemed to intensify as it reflected off the water and my vision became a white-ish daze… But I was not to be thwarted, onward I ran!

The next minute, neck deep, I felt a moment of bliss as my whole body raised to the surface. However, my bliss was shattered with terror as I realized I had no control of my body. I furiously tried staying vertical to avoid looking directly at the sun. I then realized my shirt was coming off (I forgot my swimsuit), franticly I pulled it down with my hands forfeiting any progress I had made with my legs. Salt water splashed in my eyes, nose and mouth as I rolled about in the water. The thrashing and flailing reached levels never before attained in water… Now, I only tried to coordinate my efforts enough to reach the shore… The next few minutes seem a blur; perhaps because I have since tried to suppress the memory deep in my subconscious… No matter! I eventually reached land; I felt like Odysseus coming ashore on Scheria, exhausted and ashamed.

This picture was taken just before I realized Water, and I, apparently will never be friends…

Thursday, July 29, 2010

My first day!

I stumbled off the plane, through customs, and onto the first train I came across (thankfully it was the right one.) Then, disregarding the advise of a friend I met on the flight, I decided to try walking to the bus station rather than heckle with the taxi drivers. Amazingly I was able to find the station without a map and no sense of direction!!! I got on a bus, when scenery started to look familar (thank you google map with images!) I hopped off and wandered for about 10 minutes in Old Jaffa before I found my hostel.

This is what my hostel looks like



My bed...

Amazing rooftop lounge...
View from rooftop lounge...


After getting acclimated to the hostel I decided I should ease my mother's nerves by giving her a call. However, I was unaware that Tel Aviv has a payphone conspiracy and that no one would like me!
Here is a typical conversation

Me: Slikha, atah medadr Englite? (Excuse me, do you speak English?)

Tel Avivian who hates me: khah khah, (so so)

Me: do you have/sell a phone card, payphone, band aid, etc.

Tel Avivian: lo! (No!)

Me: do you know someone/where I could find one?!?

Tel Avivian: Lo!

Me: do you know someone who knows someone who would know where I could find one?

Tel Avivian: Lo!!!

Me: besadar, toda, shalom. (okay, thanks, goodbye.)


Two hours later, demoralized, tired, and with 44 NIS worth of phonecards that don't work, I resolved to lessen the pain by visiting the Mediterranean Sea…
Here is a typical conversation
Me: Slikha, atah medadr Englite? (Excuse me, do you speak English?)

Tel Avivian who hates me: khah khah, (so so)

Me: do you have/sell a phone card, payphone, band aid, etc.

Tel Avivian: lo! (No!)

Me: do you know someone/where I could find one?!?

Tel Avivian: Lo!

Me: do you know someone who knows someone who would know where I could find one?

Tel Avivian: Lo!!!

Me: besadar, toda, shalom. (okay, thanks, goodbye.)


Two hours later, demoralized, tired, and with 44 NIS worth of phonecards that don't work, I resolved to lessen the pain by visiting the Mediterranean Sea…
Me: Slikha, atah medadr Englite? (Excuse me, do you speak English?)
Tel Avivian who hates me: khah khah, (so so)

Me: do you have/sell a phone card, payphone, band aid, etc.

Tel Avivian: lo! (No!)

Me: do you know someone/where I could find one?!?

Tel Avivian: Lo!

Me: do you know someone who knows someone who would know where I could find one?

Tel Avivian: Lo!!!

Me: besadar, toda, shalom. (okay, thanks, goodbye.)


Two hours later, demoralized, tired, and with 44 NIS worth of phonecards that don't work, I resolved to lessen the pain by visiting the Mediterranean Sea…
Tel Avivian who hates me: khah khah, (so so)
Me: do you have/sell a phone card, payphone, band aid, etc.

Tel Avivian: lo! (No!)

Me: do you know someone/where I could find one?!?

Tel Avivian: Lo!

Me: do you know someone who knows someone who would know where I could find one?

Tel Avivian: Lo!!!

Me: besadar, toda, shalom. (okay, thanks, goodbye.)


Two hours later, demoralized, tired, and with 44 NIS worth of phonecards that don't work, I resolved to lessen the pain by visiting the Mediterranean Sea…
Me: do you have/sell a phone card, payphone, band aid, etc.
Tel Avivian: lo! (No!)

Me: do you know someone/where I could find one?!?

Tel Avivian: Lo!

Me: do you know someone who knows someone who would know where I could find one?

Tel Avivian: Lo!!!

Me: besadar, toda, shalom. (okay, thanks, goodbye.)


Two hours later, demoralized, tired, and with 44 NIS worth of phonecards that don't work, I resolved to lessen the pain by visiting the Mediterranean Sea…
Tel Avivian: lo! (No!)
Me: do you know someone/where I could find one?!?

Tel Avivian: Lo!

Me: do you know someone who knows someone who would know where I could find one?

Tel Avivian: Lo!!!

Me: besadar, toda, shalom. (okay, thanks, goodbye.)


Two hours later, demoralized, tired, and with 44 NIS worth of phonecards that don't work, I resolved to lessen the pain by visiting the Mediterranean Sea…
Me: do you know someone/where I could find one?!?
Tel Avivian: Lo!

Me: do you know someone who knows someone who would know where I could find one?

Tel Avivian: Lo!!!

Me: besadar, toda, shalom. (okay, thanks, goodbye.)


Two hours later, demoralized, tired, and with 44 NIS worth of phonecards that don't work, I resolved to lessen the pain by visiting the Mediterranean Sea…
Tel Avivian: Lo!
Me: do you know someone who knows someone who would know where I could find one?

Tel Avivian: Lo!!!

Me: besadar, toda, shalom. (okay, thanks, goodbye.)


Two hours later, demoralized, tired, and with 44 NIS worth of phonecards that don't work, I resolved to lessen the pain by visiting the Mediterranean Sea…
Me: do you know someone who knows someone who would know where I could find one?
Tel Avivian: Lo!!!

Me: besadar, toda, shalom. (okay, thanks, goodbye.)


Two hours later, demoralized, tired, and with 44 NIS worth of phonecards that don't work, I resolved to lessen the pain by visiting the Mediterranean Sea…
Tel Avivian: Lo!!!
Me: besadar, toda, shalom. (okay, thanks, goodbye.)


Two hours later, demoralized, tired, and with 44 NIS worth of phonecards that don't work, I resolved to lessen the pain by visiting the Mediterranean Sea…
Me: besadar, toda, shalom. (okay, thanks, goodbye.)

Two hours later, demoralized, tired, and with 44 NIS worth of phonecards that don't work, I resolved to lessen the pain by visiting the Mediterranean Sea…
Two hours later, demoralized, tired, and with 44 NIS worth of phonecards that don't work, I resolved to lessen the pain by visiting the Mediterranean Sea…
Two hours later, demoralized, tired, and with 44 NIS worth of phonecards that don't work, I resolved to lessen the pain by visiting the Mediterranean Sea…


After awhile on the beach I thought perhaps I should go back to the hostel. During this fateful journey I had a few important realizations/experiences that reaffirmed a sort of amalgamation of Newton’s Law of Motion, and Aristotle’s Laws of Association; action and reaction, cause and effect. Appropriated by me, this takes the form for “life lesson” or “realization” and “consequence.” For instance:
Realization: contrary to my Sunday-school teachers’ belief and instruction, in Israel, “Jesus” is not always the right answer.
Consequence: one learns many new swear words in Hebrew.
Or
Life Lesson: Three wrong buses don’t make a right.
Consequence: One gets to utilize newly learned Hebrew swear words.
As I made my way back to the hostel I realized: 1.) you are never lost unless you need/want to be somewhere. 2.) All cats are diabolical and bent on hindering me in anyway they can. 3.) Tel Aviv has no appreciation for the grid pattern in their construction of roads. 4.) Narrow passage ways are fun.
Consequence of the last 4: I got very lost that day:-(
There are not two roads in the whole city that run parallel to each other, I'm sure of it! This combined with the narrow streets and passages throughout Tel Aviv and Jaffa, and the hundreds of cats wandering about maliciously (no doubt released by Jacob Bowers in perpetration for my trip) make it impossible to get anywhere…
that leads to an unassuming staircase


That brings you into a labyrinth of cat filled passage ways where you may die…

Me enjoying amazing rooftop lounge...



One seemingly peaceful street...



but I didn't die... Eventually, with the help of a trusty compass I managed to find my way back to the hostel and call my Mama!!!
The End of my first day!